Recreating Joan Woodward – Diary of a Costume Maker. Part II

Recreating Joan Woodward
Diary of a costume maker.
Part II

Exciting things are happening as I continue working on Joan’s costume in my studio. This week I did a toile fitting with elements of the costume made up in calico to check the look and fit: the bodice, the sleeve, the size of the bumroll, the collar. The garments that go underneath the costume are almost more important than the ones that go on top in this period of history. For the costume to be recognisable as Elizabethan and have that period look, it is necessary to create the right shape. For this costume that means a corset that flattens the front of the torso, a farthingale (a hoop skirt with inserted steels to create that typical cone shape) and a bumroll to help the skirt kick out from the waist. All other garments are fitted on top of these undergarments.

Marking out the patterns in calico

During the toile fitting, the pattern pieces are adjusted to fit the model and then those adjustments are transferred to the paper patterns. This way I have the correct patterns for when I cut out the pieces of the garment in the real fabric.

Joan’s new gloves



After the toile fitting, I will cut out the pieces in the proper fabrics and start assembling the costume. Joan’s accessories will follow after that.
Here are links for diary entries I and III 

Diary Part I / Diary Part III

United St. Saviour's Charity

United St. Saviour’s Charity